Eastern Washington – Page 3 – The Great Outdoors in Free State America

Mt Spokane State Park, Quartz Mountain Lookout and the Vista House.

Yesterday, I visited Mt. Spokane State Park for the first time in over a decade. This state park located about an hour from my house and forty-five minutes from downtown Spokane has three peaks over five thousand feet the tallest of which is Mt. Spokane, the the highest point in the county at 5883 feet above sea level.

I started my hike at the Selkirk Lodge and headed away from Mt. Spokane towards Quartz Mountain, the third highest summit in the park. As I left the trailhead, there were nice views of Mt. Spokane behind me complete with communication towers and snow fields.

The trail was for the most part a service road to the fire look out with several parallel Nordic ski trails for those looking for more solitude. The climate up here is close to a temperate rain forest.

Being spring, there are plenty of wild flowers to appreciate along the way.

Near the summit you will pass by evidence that miners searched the mountain for gold. Gold is often found with quartz and there is a lot of quartz near the top. I don’t think they ever found gold through. I saw a couple of shafts and tunnels on a side trail.

At the top there is an old fire look out tower that is now rented by the state park for campers. The stairs were gated and locked. The view was a little disappointing as the trees east, north and west of the top were just tall enough to block it. It would have been nice to be able to climb the ten feet or so to the balcony.

The view towards the south however were very nice towards Newman and Hauser Lakes. The prominence in the center of the horizon is Mica Peak Idaho, AKA Signal Point close to where I hiked yesterday at Cable Creek.

The quartz boulders made for a pretty foreground with the Spokane Valley far in the distance.

A better view of Newman Lake with Mica Peak Washington in the background. Spokane County has large conservation holdings both on the north end of Newman Lake and on Mica Peak.

The trip was only about four and a half miles with maybe five hundred feet of elevation gain. Not quite enough to justify the hour long drive.

So I decided to walk to the top of Mount Spokane itself. The first mile or so was on a very nice single track through some old growth forest.

Parts were steep and the trail took me out to the main park road at a campground which was closed for the season. I continued up the main park road.

So a wise guy asked me why I would walk up the mountain when they have a perfectly good motor road to the top and ski lifts as well. Well it is spring time in the Inland Northwest so ski season is over and the road is still closed to vehicles, so that was my only option. It was kind of nice to focus on the views and not worry about driving a vehicle.

Turned out parts of the road were still covered in snow above 5500 feet. Above the tree line the views kept getting better and better.

Not enough snow to cover the ski runs though. Mount Spokane is a winter sports destination with Nordic skiing, downhill skiing and snowshoe trails. The season ended a couple of months ago. Summer season begins an a couple of weeks when they open the road.

Areas where the snow has melted revealed a rocky alpine landscape with stunted trees.

The views from the summit are impressive. That’s Spirit Lake below, a place I enjoy kayaking with the snow capped Montana Cabinet Mountains on the horizon.

In this view you can see a sliver Upper Twin Lake and Mount Rathdrum where I hiked a week ago. I ended up walking about twelve miles with something close to a two thousand foot elevation gain. Tomorrow, I think I might give my legs a break and break out the kayak instead.

At the very top of the mountain you will find the Vista House. This is a nice place to linger and enjoy the views.

When the snow finally melts this will be a much more crowded place.

You get to enjoy the same views on the way down as you did going up. Once again I used my Discover Pass which has now very much more than paid for it self. Between this hike and yesterdays at Cable Creek I ended up walking for over ten hours, half of that up hill. Definitely looking at kayaking the next couple of days.

The Centennial Trail, the Urban Core.

The Centennial Trail is really two trails that join together at the Washington and Idaho state line. The trail on the Washington side of the state line is officially known as the Spokane River Centennial Trail as it pretty much follows the river through the entire county. A couple of weeks ago, I posted a ride from the Idaho state line to Millwood. That is my favorite stretch, however it will be closed for the near future for a much needed rebuilding. Today I opted to ride the ten miles or so through the City of Spokane. It had been a few years since I had ridden this section.

I started my adventure at the John Shields Trailhead near the base of Beacon Hill. This Spokane County park site is very popular with rock climbers and mountain bikers. For me it was just convenient.

Immediately the rider is rewarded with views of Upriver Dam, a hydro-electric facility owned and operated by Avista Utilities, the main power provider for the Inland Northwest. Avista has some competition from Kootenai Electric and Inland Power, But they are the big dogs on the block and their footprint along this trail is extensive.

The first couple of miles are underwhelming to say the least. Mostly bike lanes on relatively busy Upriver Drive. At least it’s a way to get from Point A to B.

Three to four miles in, I was treated to this curveball. The Spokane North-South Freeway is under construction and the detour was poorly marked. That being said, this is a much needed improvement to the local highway system. At least they installed a signalized light so I could cross Greene Street.

Since my last trip on this section a major improvement was made. Avista paid to remove a road and create a short parkway on what used to be one of the least pleasant sections of the trail.

This short section passes an old power substation and the kind of cool International style administration building for Avista.

I took a brief detour here over the old Iron Bridge that is now a bike/pedestrian trail in an attempt to go to Liberty Park and the Ben Burr Trail. I got discouraged by the maze of dead ends in an old industrial area so gave up.

Then I rode over the Gateway Bridge on the Washington State University Spokane campus.

After returning to the Centennial Trail you get to ride through the campus for Gonzaga University home to a noted law school and the best basketball in the west.

Next is Riverfront Park, Spokane’s signature public space full of amazing views and interesting artwork.

In 1974 this park was built specifically to host a worlds fair. Here is the site of what was the United States pavilion. The cable skeleton that supported the roof of the building is now an iconic landmark.

This used to be the location of railroad yards and other industrial buildings. They saved the clock tower from the old train station and it is now a landmark.

To be honest, I was prepared to write a negative review of this wonderful park based on my last visit there half a year ago. At that time homeless drug addicts were camping in the park and graffiti defaced many of the art pieces. Kuddos to the Spokane Parks Department and all others who cleaned up this mess.

Heading west out of Riverfront Park, the trail passes beneath the beautiful Monroe Street Bridge and enters Kendall Yards, a new urbanist mixed use development. As part of the development they preserved almost all of the river bank as public space and built a bike trail above it with amazing views.

The further you head west the better the views are.

At the 26 mile marker I turned around. I was getting close to Doomsday Hill and didn’t want to climb back up it. At that point there is still a short on road section before the trail enters Riverside State Park. I will have to explore that section soon.

Riverside State Park, part 2 Deep Creek Canyon and Pine Bluff.

Today I made a return visit to Riverside State Park just west of Spokane to check out a couple of hikes for the first time. The trailheads for both hikes are located off of Seven Mile Road and are only a couple of miles apart. As always I used my Discovery Pass to cover the entrance fee. It has more than paid for itself and it’s only April.

I started at the upper trailhead for Deep Creek Canyon and at the parking area their is a nice view of Pine Bluff. The hike started on what used to be a gravel park motor road, but is now closed to vehicles.

There are trails that connect Deep Creek Canyon to the Pine Bluff trail system for those who desire more of a challenge. Both hikes by themselves are easy each being only two or three miles and with moderate elevation gains. I highly recommend hiking boots. The basalt rocks are sharp and athletic shoes just don’t cut it.

A few hundred feet down the gravel road I turned left on trail #25 and descended to the bottom of the canyon and immediately climbed back up on the opposite side. The canyon was completely dry.

At the rim you have a choice between staying on trail #25 to the left or turning right on trail #411 also called the Interpretive Loop Trail. I opted for the latter and was soon greeted by stark basalt rock formations.

In the distance you can see where the canyon ends on shore of Nine Mile Reservoir the body of water created by the dam of that name on the Spokane River.

These monoliths were home to hundreds of sparrows.

The trail slowly descends through a basalt wasteland. Parts of it reminded me of Craters of the Moon in southern Idaho.

At the bottom of the canyon near its termination on the shore of the lake the habitat changes significantly with cottonwoods and birch trees becoming more common. There is an old rest stop here that apparently was used by tourist back when the shoreline road hosted vehicular traffic.

This bridge is now used only for non-motorized travel and is part of the Centennial Trail. The water beneath it is backwater from the lake, Deep Creek was completely dry. Here I hiked a few hundred feet east on the road and then turned right on the old park road to the Deep Creek Canyon Overlook.

This used to be pull out for cars before the road became a non-motorized trail. Three quarters of a mile and I was back at the trailhead.

My next stop was the second of two trailheads for Pine Bluff. The parking areas was only big enough for three cars. An easy hike on a confusing and poorly marked trail system soon brought me to outstanding views of the lake.

Across the valley you can see Knothead Mountain where I hiked a few weeks ago and in the far distance Mount Spokane, the tallest peak in Spokane County at 5883 feet above sea level.

The updrafts created by the cliffs are used by all kinds of birds including Ravens, Ospreys, Eagles and Vultures.

The trail skirts some shear cliffs with outstanding views.

The open flower covered meadows were visually appealing and the flat trail very easy to negotiate.

Same area, but a different view.

They even have some nice benches up there from which to enjoy the views to the east.

The return to the trailhead was short and easy. These hiking options are suitable for a wide range of abilities and the location just outside of Spokane makes for an easy day, or half day trip.

Riverside State Park, part 1 the Knothead Loop Trail.

Today I hiked the Knothead Loop trail for the fourth time. This little treasure is just a few miles north of Spokane Washington in one of the units of Riverside State Park. My starting point was at the aptly named Painted Rocks Trailhead off of Indian Trail Road just north of the Little Spokane River. There is a $10 fee to park at the trailhead. I highly recommend purchasing a Discover Pass from the State of Washington. If you like to explore, it will pay for itself very quickly.

This is allegedly a Native American pictograph. It is protected by an elaborate cage which I stuck my hands through so I could get a photo without bars. It is located right at the trailhead, hence the name.

This is a six mile loop trail with an additional 1.5 mile spur to three amazing overlooks. I always have hiked this loop counter clockwise. Immediately you’re greeted with stark granite cliffs in an area that experienced a catastrophic wildfire less than a decade ago.

After hiking up a gradual incline through the Knothead Valley, the trail gains elevation though a series of switchbacks with view back to the southeast. That’s Mica Peak Washington in the distance. The elevation gain is about one thousand feet.

After cresting the ridge, the hiker is rewarded with amazing views of Long Lake, which is the lake created by the Long Lake Dam on the Spokane River just before it empties into Lake Roosevelt.

This is a great place to linger and enjoy the views as well as recover from the moderately steep climb from the valley.

In the distance you can see the Okanagan Highlands. In the foreground some of the rock formations are very photogenic. This is the high point of the loop.

The great bend of Long Lake and the view out to the West Plains are very beautiful.

Going down from the high Point, you’ll encounter a trail junction before the steep descent to the Little Spokane River. Take the Knothead Overlook Trail to the left and you will be rewarded with some amazing views.

This spur trail accesses three overlooks, each substantially higher that the last. At all of them you can enjoy views of the serpentine Little Spokane River.

The drop offs can be intimidating or exhilarating, depending on your fear of heights. Either way the views keep coming.

The hike to the third and highest overlook goes through an area that experienced a stand replacement wildfire. These are part of the natural cycle in the inland northwest. That ponderosa trunk is kind of scary to walk under. If it fell, it would squish you like a grape.

At the top of the Overlook Trail, you can explore off trail and see interesting rock formations.

After exploring the Overlook Trail, you will return to the main loop trail and begin your descent to the river valley. The trail is well built and maintained.

Many interesting rock outcroppings are found along the trail.

On the way down, the trail goes through some open ponderosa pine forest on benches (relatively flat areas) before it descends to the river.

An open ridge gives the hiker one last look of Long Lake.

The last mile or two of the hike closely parallels the Little Spokane River back to the trailhead. In a month or two, I hope to post a kayak trip on this waterway. It looks amazing.

The Little Spokane Rive or its associated wetland bracket the trail to the south or as like to hike counter clockwise, to the right.

Kayaking this is definitely on my bucket list. This is supposedly a one way trip, so I need a partner to drop off a vehicle at the downstream end.

Just before the trailhead, you reenter the burned area. On one side of the trail is the Little Spokane and on the other a wilderness of granite cliffs. Makes for a stark contrast.

Overall I would rate this as one of the best hikes in the Spokane area. It’s easy to get to and the reward verses effort is very high. Check here for more information on Riverside State Park. I hope to post more hikes from the park in the near future.

Hiking in Grand Coulee, part 2 Northrup Canyon.

Northrup Canyon is park of Steamboat Rock State park and the trailhead is located on the east (inland) side of State Road 155 about three miles north of the main park entrance. I made the visit on Sunday, March 17, 2024 after spending most of the day on top of Steamboat Rock. There is a fee to enter the park. I highly recommend purchasing an annual Discover Pass through the Washington State Parks Department.

Northrup Canyon is a classic basalt gorge, typical of the area.

At the trailhead, a second hiking option, The Old Wagon Road splits off to the right and climbs the south wall of the canyon. It looked well worth exploring but unfortunately I only had time to take the main trail to an abandoned farmstead before the sun when down.

The relatively level old farm road winds through the canyon with a mix of sage brush, open pine forests and wetlands between imposing basalt walls.

The views are stunning and the walking is easy to the old farm buildings.

Several out buildings in various stages of decay made for interesting photographic backgrounds.

The old farm house looked like it could be a very lonely and isolated place. Notice the large basalt arch on the canyon wall above and to the right of the building.

The view from the living room window. The trail continues another mile and a half further on a steeper single track to a small lake. I will have to explore this option at a later date.

Dramatic rock formations loom over much of the trail. Basalt is the most unfriendly rock.

The round trip to the farm and back is a little under four miles. Going all the way to the lake and back would be just over six miles. This trail is definitely on my list for a return visit.

Hiking in Grand Coulee, part 1 Steamboat Rock

I took a two and a half hour drive west to sample a couple of unique hikes in Steamboat Rock State Park. On the way made a quick stop to admire the mighty Grand Coulee Dam. First was the hike to the top of Steamboat Rock and later that day, I visited Northrup Canyon. There is a fee to enter the park. I highly recommend purchasing an annual Discover Pass through the Washington State Parks Department.

In terms of generating electricity, Grand Coulee is the leading producer in the United States. A short drive up the hill rewards the traveler with this view from the Crown Point Vista.