Category: Hikes

Liberty Lake Loop Trail

I wrapped up the weekend by returning to Liberty Lake Regional Park for the first time this year. The park has been undergoing an extensive renovation and has been closed for the season.

When I arrived I discovered that the park was still closed. However signage at the entrance directed hikers to an alternative connection to the extensive trail system at the parks equestrian trailhead down the road about a mile. I should have checked this out sooner. The connecting trail was a gem I’ve never hiked before called the Zephyr Connector.

This trail meandered through an open pine forest for about a mile as it descended a couple of hundred feet to the main train along Liberty Creek. There were some open views of Liberty Lake and of Mica Peak on the way down.

South of the lake there are open meadows and wetlands on the floor of the valley.

At the bottom the scenery looked a lot like places I’ve hiked in central Florida. You just have to avoid seeing the mountains the other three directions.

As you head upstream the small valley closes in and you are soon walking through a thick forest. Being early October there wasn’t much water left.

This small ravine stays relatively moist throughout the year creating conditions that promote lots of moss and ferns. The track is in excellent shape and you slowly gain elevation as you follow the creek.

About two miles in from the equestrian trailhead you come to the cedar grove. There is a bench and interpretive signage here and the trail crosses the stream on a foot bridge. Immediately after the bridge, the trail climbs up the west slope of the ravine on a series of short steep switchbacks. This is were you gain most of the elevation on the hike.

At the end of the final switchback their is a nice open view back down to Liberty lake. The mountain across the Spokane Valley is Antione Peak, a place I hike and have posted about. Both the Antione Peak Conservation Area and Liberty Lake Regional Park are owned and managed by Spokane County.

After climbing out of the steep valley the trail travels along the west side and heads north and then northwest through a mature forest with large second growth trees.

At a couple of open areas high above the creek you can see across the ravine and have a view of Cable Peak on the Idaho side of the state line. The Idaho Department of Lands owns a block of land down slope that I enjoy hiking on.

As it is getting late in the season it was kind of chilly in the dense forest and even at midday the shadows are much longer than in summer. The trail ends up crossing one of the small creeks that flow together to create Liberty Creek on a small footbridge.

I almost had the place to myself. This trail is a loop trail, but I usually return the same way I came. If you take the full loop it is over a eight mile hike and the final descent to the creek is extremely steep.

After the steam crossing you continue up hill towards the waterfalls on a couple of questionable boardwalk sections. It look’s like these gems are due for a rebuild.

Then I finally make it to the roaring waterfall. What did you expect, after all it is October.

So here’s the same fall, the lower fall in spring. Much better. If you want to see waterfalls in this part of the country and really most any place in the United States, it’s best to go just after the snow melts off the trail.

Here’s the upper fall also in the spring time. This point is right at three miles in and a nice place to turn around.

On the way back I was treated to this sight. That is a bunch of lady bugs.

I also got to step over this little guy trying to soak up a little solar radiation on one of the last somewhat warm days of the year.

The entire hike worked out to be a little over six miles. The alternate trailhead added a little distance and elevation as I had to regain a couple of hundred feet right at the end of my journey. All together this made for about a twelve hundred foot elevation gain.

Liberty Lake Park is a great place to stretch my legs and its only fifteen minutes from my house. Give me Liberty or Give me Death.

I probably have made this hike over a dozen times since I moved to the Inland Northwest. There is a connector trail that traverses the north side of Mica Peak Washington and joins up with the trail system on the Mica Peak Conservation Area, yet another excellent Spokane County amenity.

Cabinet Mountains Road Trip part 2, Hiking to Leigh Lake in the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness Area.

Over the weekend I took a three day trip to Montana with the primary goal being to kayak on Bull Lake. We decided to break up the trip by throwing in a challenging hike in the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness Area outside of Libby Montana.

The place we were camping is in a valley that divides the mountain range in half. From the valley are views of the rugged peaks in the center of the Cabinets. We drove about ninety minutes around this range, through Libby and then on dirt forest service roads to the trailhead for the Leigh Lake Trail #132.

After one wrong turn due to missing signage we found the trailhead. The road to it was better than most in this part of the world. Their were only two other vehicles in the small parking area when we got there.

The trail starts out steep and stays steep as it climbs out of the valley on a series of switchbacks.

Not far up the trial a sign lets you know that you’ve entered the wilderness area.

On the way up we passed under some pretty big cliffs. The trail was steeper than Scotchman but much shorter. It got my heart pounding in places.

In places the trail was more of a rock scramble. Yes that is the trail. If you have a fear of heights this might not be the place for you.

There are places were the narrow trail has loose rocks and big drop offs. Caution is advised.

Near the top is one of the highlights of the hike. A cascading waterfall is a nice place to stop and enjoy the views for a while.

Here we had a nice view back down the valley we climbed out of.

It was nice to know we were still on the right track. The trail beyond this point is extremely steep until it gets to the top of the ridge just before the lake. The other trail crosses Leigh Creek and goes to the south side of the lake.

Believe it or not, this is the ‘trail’.

After walking over one last little rise we got our first look at the lake. A short down hill walk brought us to the shore.

The trail follows the shore line until it ends on a rocky beach with views of the rock cliffs at the base of Snowshoe Peak, the tallest mountain in the Cabinets.

Although it is a steep hike, the hike to Leigh Lake from the trailhead is only about a third of the distance and a third of the elevation gain as the hike to the top of Scotchman Peak. For those of you that need more of a challenge some folks continue to the top of the mountain. We met a couple of them on the way down.

From the rocky beach there is a nice panorama of the surrounding mountains and cliffs. The mountain in the center right is the lower slopes of Snowshoe Peak. Snowshoe Peak has the only remaining glacier in the Cabinets on its north shoulder.

A little further around the bend is a pretty marsh. I would not have been surprised to see some wildlife here but we didn’t. There are mountain goats in the area and the Cabinets are grizzly country.

The lake is a place you want to spend some time at appreciating the scenery.

Leigh Lake is the kind of place you would want to stay all day at but eventually it is time to leave. Looking back towards the lake we could see the beginnings of fall in the colors of the leaves and a few left over patches of snow on Snowshoe Peak from the previous winter. Soon enough these snow patches will have plenty of reinforcements.

Now it was time to retrace our steps on the way back down.

Looking back down on the waterfall we visited on the way up gives you a perspective on how far it was to climb to the lake. No need for those with vertigo to apply.

While hiking back down we enjoyed the small views. All too soon we were back at the trailhead.

By the time we finished we hiked a modest three miles or so round trip and gained maybe 1200 feet of elevation. In places the trail was challenging some might say exhilarating with rock scrambling and extreme drop offs not for the faint of heart. The waterfall and the lake are highlights of this hike. I would gladly do this again.

Not getting enough of waterfalls for the day we stopped at Kootenai Falls between Libby and Troy Montana for some easy walks and great views before we made it back to our campground on Bull Lake.

Scotchman Peak

Yesterday I hiked to the summit of Scotchman Peak Idaho for the third and almost certainly the last time. Scotchman Peak is the tallest mountain on the Idaho side of the Cabinet Mountains, the highest summit in Bonner County and one of the highest points in the Idaho Panhandle. The trailhead for this hike is located about seven miles outside of the town of Clark Fork Idaho.

The summit of Scotchman Peak is listed at 7009 feet above sea level. The trailhead sits at 3300 feet making the total elevation gain a little over 3700 feet. Scotchman Peak is in the Idaho Panhandle National Forest and the official site includes directions on how to get to the trailhead.

From close to the trailhead, you can see what appears to be the summit. It isn’t. This false summit is hundreds of feet below your final goal. So let’s get started.

Since your in the Cabinet Mountains your also entering Grizzly country so take the proper precautions. Brown bears do range through out these mountains but I’ve never heard of an encounter on this specific trail.

The first half of this 4.2 mile hike to the top climbs a heavily forested ridge using short steep switchbacks. The grade is tough. I did the math and gaining 3700 feet over 22176 linear feet gives you an average grade of a little less than seventeen percent. Some stretches were less and some more, a lot more. Ouch.

Every once in a while the view opens up and you find yourself looking up towards the top of nearby mountains. By the time we reached the summit this hill looked like a pimple below us on the valley floor.

The area around Clark Fork gets the greatest amount of precipitation in the state. This accounts for the lush growth and the moss covering the trees.

After a couple of hours of zig zagging up the forested ridge we finally came to open subalpine slopes with expansive views.

Most of those views are dominated by Lake Pend Oreille, the largest lake in Idaho and a favorite kayaking spot of mine.

After the open meadows and then another band of subalpine forest the final destination was in sight and involved walking on a trail through loose rocks and shale.

At the summit we enjoyed the views of the rest of the Idaho Cabinets to the west. It’s a little humbling to view a true wilderness like this. Then we turned around only to discover we hadn’t actually made it to the real summit.

From up here we could see one last patch of snow at the base of the cliff below us on this late September day. At the top of this cliff was the real summit.

The real top was still hundreds of feet and maybe another quarter of a mile up an imposing ridge, which may account for the discrepancy between the listed distance of the hike and the distance we actually covered. By the way if you zoom in there’s a tiny dot at the very peak. This turned out to be another hiker giving you a scale of the terrain.

We had hoped to see mountain goats above the tree line. There are two signs on the way up that inform hikers about goat etiquette. A few years ago they had to close this trail for a hiking season due to knuckleheads’ feeding the goats and causing them to become aggressive.

We did get to see the goats! Just below the false summit a family of mountain goats were hiding out. This photo shows four of them. We counted six in this group all together.

After watching the goats and enjoying the views we made one final push to gain the true summit. By now we were hurting. The trip up to this point is strenuous and the last part was even tougher. Also some of the drop offs were awfully intimidating.

After a good four and a half hours of hiking we finally made it to the top. A marker told us so.

At the summit someone has built a shelter out of stone and left over lumber from an old fire tower. It looked a little sketchy.

At the very top this is the view back to the false summit we saw at the beginning of the hike. The pimple of a hill is in the background.

While we rested and ate our lunch three big male goats decided to drop in for a visit. Never trust an animal with rectangular eyes.

These guys were looking for handouts and had to be discouraged from getting too close. I thought for a minute that I was going to have to use my bear spray. It would be bad to have one of them push you off a ledge.

From the summit there are outstanding views to the north and east of the Montana Cabinets. A couple of peaks in the range top out well over eight thousand feet above sea level. There is a wilderness area covering part of the Montana Cabinets. A group called the Friends of the Scotchman Peak Wilderness have been lobbying for the creation of another wilderness area to encompass this peak.

On the way down we stopped at the false summit again to savor the views of the lake.

On the way down we saw more mountain goats. Some might have been repeat sightings but we saw ten to twelve goats all together during the trip.

Below is the Delta of the Clark Fork River were the river enters Lake Pend Oreille. I kayaked this place a couple of months ago and highly recommend the trip.

So after eight and a half hours of some of the toughest hiking I have ever done we made it back to the trailhead and started the two hour drive back home. Reviews of this hike list the average time needed to complete it as six and a half hours. I guess having to stop every couple of hundred years on the way up to catch my breath ate up a lot of time.

I had done this hike twice before and wasn’t sure if I wanted to tackle it again. It is one of the most awesome hikes I’ve ever done but also about the hardest. The grade up is unrelenting and and the way back steep enough to hurt your knees and feet. The views and the mountain goats are both highlights of the trip. I’m glad I did it one more time but can say with a lot of confidence that I’m not trying it again. After all the years do catch up with everyone.

Glacier National Park, the long way home.

Failing in my attempt to secure lodging for a third night and stymied from visiting Many Glacier I weighed my options and instead of a third long hike that was not my first choice and then a late evening grueling six hour trip back, I decided to leave early and take my time and explore a little on the way home. My hikes at Siyeh Pass and Dawson Pass wore me out anyway.

I drove through Whitefish “underwhelming by the way”, then through Eureka “nice but no reason to stop”, then along Lake Koocanusa with it’s endless miles of road reconstruction. Lake Koocanuse, Koo for the Kootenai River can for Canada and usa for you guess it the United States of America, was formed by Libby Dam. Here they have a nice visitor center and public viewing platforms.

After driving through the town of Libby, my next stop was at Kootenai Falls. There is a parking lot with a picnic area along with a snack shop off of US 2 between Libby and Troy Montana.

Kootenai Falls is one of the largest undammed waterfalls in Montana.

This recreational site includes a pedestrian bridge over the BNSF Railroad mainline. Don’t worry, I checked before crossing to make sure my brother wasn’t coming.

A long pedestrian suspension bridge gives you access to the north side of the river and more views of the waterfall. If you’re afraid of these types of bridges then this one isn’t the one to overcome them on. It sways really good and the river is a long way down.

Here is the view of the bridge from across the river.

Kootenai Falls is managed by the US Forest Service and is a nice place to spend an hour or so exploring and enjoying the view.

Before Troy I cut over on Montana State Road 56 through the Bull River Valley towards Noxom. This is one of the most scenic roads in the area and goes through the middle of the Cabinet Mountains. About half way through it is Bull Lake.

Across the lake is Bad Medicine, a striking cliff formation that begs to be explored. As far as I can tell access isn’t easy.

A little further to the south is a four mile long paved road to one of the few old growth cedar groves left in the northwest. Ross Creek is well visited and maintained.

A short walk leads you from the parking lot to the giant trees. Moss covered boulders at the base of a cliff border the trail.

Some of these giants are well over four hundred years old.

They’re not quite the California Redwoods but they are in the ball park especially for here.

Walking through the grove is a relaxing experience.

About half way down the entrance road to Ross Creek is this view into the heart of the Cabinet Mountains. It’s not quite Glacier but it is only ninety minutes from my house.

Along State Road 56 there are several turnouts with scenic views of the Cabinet Mountains. I hiked a little here several years ago and hope to return in the near future.

The Bull River follows the highway down the valley. This valley has to be one of the prettiest places around.

I probably walked less than two miles at my various stops on the way home but it was a relaxing way to end my trip. Bull Lake in the middle of the valley has two campgrounds and would be a perfect place to combine a kayak trip with a mountain hike. Sounds like the basis for a future post.

Glacier National Park Day Two, Dawson Pass and St. Mary’s.

On day one I discovered that I needed a two dollar on line pass to visit the Many Glacier area. I planned to hike to Grinnell Glacier on my second day but was unable to secure a pass. Disappointed I looked for an alternative and settled on the Two Medicine Lake area, the most under visited part of the park.

After checking in to my cabin as I hadn’t the night before, I drove about ninety minutes around Glacier national Park to East Glacier and then on to Two Medicine Lake. This is the “dry” side of the park and outside of it the habitat is primarily grasslands. This is also next to the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.

So I settled on Dawson pass as my goal for todays hike. It would be pushing it for me as it was a thirteen mile long hike with a twenty eight hundred foot elevation gain. I figured I had time as I got a much earlier start that the previous days hike. By 9:30 I was on the trail.

The first couple of miles were along the north shore of Two Medicine Lake. It was a pretty walk but there was no elevation gain, a fact that would cost me later.

While hiking along the shore line I watched the boat tours run up the lake. They offer return only rides for hikers who would like to save about two and a half miles of their journey. If I ever go again I would take advantage of this service. The last couple of miles heading back got to be a little painful. If you get a round trip ticket it saves five miles but no elevation.

The scenery along the trail is amazing and the first three and a half miles are relatively flat.

That gave me plenty of time to appreciate the small things. FYI, blue berries “AKA huckleberries” good.

And red berries “Chokecherries” no bueno. They may or may not be toxic but either way you don’t eat these.

About three miles in you hit the trail junction that either back tracks to the boat landing or continues to Upper Two Medicine Lake, a popular overnight camping destination. Here the trail really starts climbing.

On the way up a series of challenging switch backs this impressive monolith stands guard above you.

At the top of this climb you are treated to views back towards Two Medicine Lake.

After climbing this section of the trail with it’s incredible views the path levels out for about half a mile until the junction with the spur to No Name Lake. I opted to skip the short spur in order to push to the pass.

After the No Name Lake Trail junction the main trail started to climb steeply again. By now I realized I wasn’t going to make it to the pass. I had plenty of time but was figuratively out of gas and it was a long way back.

This was as close as I got and that ridge is still a long way away. Having to gain all of the elevation in the last half of the hike made it difficult. The boat ride would have saved a lot of time and effort as well and if there is ever a next time I would take advantage of it.

The scenery on the way was just as good as it was on the way up and the walking a lot easier. It was still hard on the knees and back though.

On the way back I took my time and enjoyed the small things. I failed to reach my goal but it was still a rewarding experience.

Just before I reached the trailhead I got a bonus. A group of bighorn sheep were grazing right in my path. If I had taken the boat back I would have missed seeing these amazing animals.

They didn’t seen too worried about me and as I waited and enjoyed the show about a dozen other hikers showed up and did the same. We all eventually managed to get around them by detouring around the trail.

So five and a half hours later I was back at my car. I figured I ended up doing about eleven miles and maybe eighteen hundred feet. On top of yesterdays hike that made for twenty miles and four thousand feet. Not a bad effort.

So I decided to go back to west Glacier by taking Going to the Sun Road across the park. To get to St. Mary’s I used Montana State Road 49. Looking back towards Two Medicine I was treated to this view. The road takes you through part of the Blackfeet Nation.

State Road 49 climbed over a pass and near the top this was the view. This is the end of the Rockies and the beginning of the Great Plains. From here it’s almost as flat as a pancake to West Virginia a couple of thousand miles to the east.

This is looking north towards St Mary’s across the rolling plains. The east end of Going to the Sun Road was about a twenty mile drive from Two Medicine.

The eastern end of Going to the Sun Road is dominated by Saint Mary’s Lake. The landscape is noticeably drier than that on the other side of Logan Pass. This photo is at the overlook for Goose Island.

As beautiful as Lake McDonald is Saint Mary’s Lake is in my opinion even prettier.

At Sun Point I took a short walk and enjoyed the late afternoon views.

The sun was setting in the west and it truly felt like I was on a road going to the sun. Now it was time to head back across the park. The road is fifty miles long and it takes at least two hours to transit Glacier National Park on it. Going around on the U.S. Highways is longer and faster but ends up taking just about as long.

I headed the rest of the way back up towards Logan Pass and at Siyeh Bend I saw this cascade I missed the day before.

So I get to Logan Pass at the end of the day and it’s still a zoo. The parking lot was closed and Park Rangers were blocking the entrances. I was glad I wasn’t fighting those crowds.

I enjoyed the slow scenic ride back down on the narrower west side of the pass. Going to the Sun Road from St. Mary’s to Logan Pass is a much better and safer road than the section west of Logan heading towards Lake McDonald.

Before it got dark I had just enough time to check out a small waterfall on the way to Lake McDonald. By now the hordes were mostly out of the park.

I stopped to take one last look oat Lake McDonald before I got back in cell phone land. I tried to buy a two dollar pass to Many Glacier for the next day but of course they already sold out. I wasn’t sure if I even wanted to take the drive cross the park again the next morning anyway.

I got back to my camper cabin just in time to catch their BBQ night. Glacier Campground just outside the West Glacier entrance was an unique place to stay. The Sunflower CafĂ© had a vibe that reminded me of Camp Curry in Yosemite back in the day. Lots of the customers were young outdoor enthusiast. The campground staff was awesome and the bathrooms were very nice. I checked to see if they might have a cabin for the next night come available due to a last minute cancellation but was out of luck. I was lucky to score two nights at the last minute due to someone else’s cancellation

Glacier National Park Day One, Going to the Sun Road and Siyeh Pass.

One the first day of my road trip to Glacier National Park I discovered that you need one day permits to drive on Going to the Sun Road and to visit Many Glaciers and you can only get them on line. I lucked out and was able to purchase one for Going to the Sun Road as I was waiting in line to enter the park. It is a complicated system and not very conducive to spur of the moment visits.

Entering Glacier National park from the west I soon arrived at Lake McDonald. Scenic pull outs along the road provide beautiful views of the mountains on the far side.

Beyond the lake the Going to the Sun Road follows the river that feeds it upstream. The outlet for Lake McDonald is the beginning of the Middle Fork of the Flathead River.

I blew by the trailhead for Avalanche Basin. This is one of the most congested places in the park and the parking lots were full. I’ve been there and done that anyway and was looking for new adventures.

Just after crossing Logan Creek, the road turns northwest and really starts climbing. It doesn’t take long before you’re far above the river valley.

The views are outstanding but the road is narrow and winding. It requires your full attention. It would be nice if all large trucks folded their sideview mirrors in.

Having to purchase a day pass to drive on the road was a hassle. The flip side was that traffic was kind of manageable. It was still heavy but there were no delays on the way up.

I was heading for Logan pass to hike the Highline Trail. I always wanted to try it. The trail is way above Going to the Sun Road.

Well I got to the top and it was a zoo. The parking lots was completely full and the trailhead looked so busy that it was a turn off for me. The popular Hidden Lake Trail also starts at Logan Pass and I did that one years ago too.

I stopped at a smaller pull out down the slope to assess the situation when I saw this guy. It was nice to have a goat pose for my blog.

I decided to drive down the other side of Logan Pass and take a hike out of Siyeh Bend. Sometimes it’s good to have a backup plan.

According to the sign at the trailhead it was a nine mile round trip with about twenty three hundred feet of elevation gain. Sounds about right.

Soon I was in a thickly canopied forest.

I was glad I brought a can. I would have rather had a firearm but National Parks are very strict about that. It would have been nice to have had company just for the added safety but sometimes you have to strike out on your own.

The hike through the forest was nice but I was really looking for bigger views. The trail was easy to follow and crossed numerous small creeks. In September the streams are much smaller than they are early in the hiking season.

Probably over half of the hike was though this type of evergreen forest. It slowly opened up as I gained elevation.

As the canopy thinned I was treated to views of the mountains still far above me on a more regular basis.

After a couple of hours I finally hit the open valleys and could see Siyeh Pass which is really a low saddle between a couple of peaks.

One last stream crossing on a bridge of rocks .

Up in this high valley the scenery was truly epic. I only passed a few hikers who were on their way down and once I hit the open slopes I had the place to myself.

The trail passed by a small high country pond. I was surprised and a little disappointed that there wasn’t any wildlife to be viewed here.

As I continued to climb the trail towards the pass, the views behind me kept getting better and better. That’s Piegan Mountain with Piegan Glacier across the valley on the right side. Clements Mountain overlooking Logan Pass is in the distance in the center.

The final part of the hike to Siyeh Pass climbed up a series of steep switchbacks. By now I was running out of time.

At the base of Mount Siyeh I enjoyed the view of three small glacier melt off lakes. At the end of my hike I ran into three young men who started at 9:00 AM and hiked to the top of this mountain. They told me it was the best hike in the park. I’m afraid a hike like that is a little out of my league anymore.

I was this close to the saddle when I turned around. The effort wasn’t the problem, time was. I had a drop dead time to turn around. It wouldn’t do to be trying to find my way back in the dark in grizzly country.

On the way back I savored the view. These are exactly the views I came for. It reminded me of the line from the movie Jeremiah Johnson when his travelling companion told him the Rockies are the marrow of the world.

Soon I was back in the canopied forest. I was making the best time I could. As far as I knew I was the last person on the trail.

I recrossed all of the streams again on my way down.

By now I was nearing the trailhead and the shadows were starting to lengthen. I did pass a couple of people heading up and assumed they were either backpack camping or turning around soon. This is were the three mountain climbers caught up with me. They knew the park like the back of their hands and shared lots of tips on were to hike around Many Glacier which was my plan for the next day.

I drove back down Going to the Sun Road as the light faded. By the time I got back in cell phone land all of the next days passes for Many Glacier were already sold out. To keep my options open I bought another pass for Going to the Sun Road which I ended up not needing. The system the park uses to limit traffic was really working against me.

I started my day by leaving home at 5:00 AM. The drive took a good six hours and with the additional delays in securing a pass, waiting in line to get in and losing an hour from the time zone change, it was 2:00 PM before I started my hike. I was back to my car by 6:30. It would have been nice to have another hour to push it further, still 2300 feet and nine miles wasn’t too shabby. By the time I made it to my campground in West Glacier it was dark and the office was closed. They left a map and a key for me taped to the office door. Nice.

McKenzie Conservation Area

Yesterdays hike at the McKenzie Conservation Area on the north side of Newman Lake is a return to a local hidden gem. Thank you Spokane County. This was my fourth trip here this year. The trailhead is only about fifteen minutes from my house.

A simple gravel parking area provides access to about five miles of hiking trails. I hiked about four miles of them by taking the Bedrock Ridge Trail and returning on the Turtle Rock Trail with a side trip south through the marshlands to the property boundary and back. Oddly enough, Spokane County has another conservation area only a few miles to the south with slightly different spelling called Mackenzie next to Liberty Lake Park. If anyone who reads this blog knows why that is please let me know.

The first part of the Bedrock Ridge Trail winds through a nice mixed forest. One of the things I like about McKenzie is the tree variety. Pretty much every species native to the area is represented.

The two species of firs, Grand and Douglas often grow side by side. Douglas firs are not true fir trees and the needles grow out of the stem in a radial pattern. Grand firs have flat needles like a feather.

The Bedrock Ridge Trail gains a little bit of elevation and true to it’s name about a mile in you come to rock outcroppings near the high point of the trail.

Here you see Newman Lake for the first time on the hike. On the drive to the trailhead you get to see a lot of the lake from the the windshield. It is a scenic drive.

At the junction with the Turtle Rock Trail I went right instead of left to check out the wetlands on the south end of the conservation area.

Something had a sweet tooth. I saw more than one hive broken open and scattered. I imagine the first few licks of honey were awfully tangy.

I turned around and made my way to Turtle Rock. This is the only spot on the property where its possible to access the lake without wading through marshlands. Allegedly this was a favorite campsite for Native Americans.

Most of the walk back on the Turtle Rock Trail is flat and skirts wetlands.

There are some pretty big cottonwood trees in the lowlands along with cedars and hemlocks. The conservation area has several mature western white pines which is nice to see as they were almost eliminated from the region due to the white pine blister rust and over harvesting.

Another view of Newman Lake.

McKenzie Conservation Area is a nice place to enjoy a relaxing walk in the woods. The elevation gain is minimal and views are beautiful. That’s Mica Peak Idaho, AKA Signal Point, in the distance. There is another trail that crosses Newman Lake Road and climbs considerable higher up the ridge if you just have to get more of a workout. This loop adds another mile of two to the hike and gains maybe 400 feet of elevation. There are no views of the lake through from this trail.

Dishman Hills, hiking Iller Creek and the Rocks of Sharon.

Dishman Hills is a natural area made up of three units. Iller Creek is the northern most and highest of them. The Iller Creek trailhead is located west of Dishman Mica Road in a residential area of Spokane Valley.

The trailhead has limited parking which usually isn’t an issue on weekdays. As soon as you start there is a fork. I always take the right path and hike the loop counter clockwise.

This trail follows a dry creek bed at a moderate grade through a thick forest. It isn’t very exciting but it gets you to where your going.

This preserved is managed by Spokane County as a conservation area. As is typical, Spokane County maintains a well built and marked trail system.

At two and a half miles in you come to the Rocks of Sharon. These massive boulders are a popular local rock climbing destination.

I typically spend over an hour exploring the rocks. There are over a dozen of these monoliths lined up on the south side of the high ridge.

This is a perfect place to stop for a break and enjoy the views.

And the view is of the Palouse Prairie, an area of rolling farmland that extends a hundred miles to the south.

North of the rocks is probably the largest collection of antennas and satellite dishes I’ve ever seen. Pretty much every television and radio station in greater Spokane uses this site to transmit their signals.

Another view of interesting rock formations.

At the Rocks of Sharon there is a junction with the Stevens Creek Trailhead connector. By using this access point it is possible to get to the rocks by hiking less than half the distance and a third of the elevation. Drive there though takes an extra hour.

I had the place to myself for a good hour. I highly recommend hiking this trail on weekdays. It can get awfully busy on weekends.

I just wish I hadn’t tried to drive my truck up the trail. No really, this isn’t the first old abandoned vehicle I’ve come across hiking close to Spokane. This was on the East Ridge Trail just after I started my return.

If you hike the loop counter clockwise, you will return to the Iller Creek Trailhead vis the East Ridge Trail.

The East Ridge Trail is more open and you get views of Spokane Valley and Mt. Spokane in the distance.

To the west you can see Mica Peak with it’s distinctive radar dome.

Five miles and twelve hundred feet later, you return to the starting point. Here is a picture at the trailhead of a mountain ash tree.

I first saw this place while flying out of the Spokane airport over a decade ago. It looked so cool from above I did a little research, found the trailheads and have since hiked it about a dozen times. I was a little surprised that the elevation gain turned out to be well over a thousand feet. It is one of the best little hikes close to Spokane that I know of.

Smith Rock State Park. Hiking the Misery Ridge and River Trail Loop

I took a seven hour drive to the high desert country of central Oregon to spend a couple of nights and explore. On my way to Bend, I stopped at Smith Rock State Park.

This wonderful park is located a couple of miles east of US 97 near the town of Terrebonne about twenty miles north of Bend. I paid the five dollar admission and started walking.

The Misery Ridge Trail is across the river the Crooked River from the parking areas and visitor center. This part of the park is crowded with sightseers.

I walked the loop counter clockwise and would highly recommend that direction. The hike begins with a series of steep switchbacks that soon get you away from most of the crowd. To your left are some shear rock walls that are a Mecca for rock climbers.

And to your right and soon way below you is the river that almost encircles the rocks. The switchbacks are challenging and wooden steps help you in s0me of the steepest sections.

It only takes six tenths of a mile to gain the little over seven hundred feet of elevation to the top. The vegetation on the summit consists of sparse desert shrubs and large juniper trees.

The views from the top are outstanding. You can see the distant Cascade Mountains to the west and appreciate the stunning rock formations below you.

I stayed up here a while to enjoy the view. It was sunny and for the time of year, reasonably cool. Signs at the trailhead warn hikers to bring plenty of water and I did. You can get dehydrated here in a hurry.

A short walk further and you begin the descent on the other side of the ridge next to a prominent rock pillar called Monkey Face.

Here’s the view of this rock from below. It’s pretty clear how it came to acquire such an unusual name. There are rock climbing routes up this feature as well.

Soon you find yourself next to the Crooked River on the far side of Misery Ridge from the trailhead. It is a photogenic stream.

You get to follow the river for a couple of miles back to the starting point which is a great way to wind down after getting your heart pumping crossing over the ridge. Here you can still see Monkey Face just left of center.

The River Trail has a new view around every bend.

At one point you can hear a decent size waterfall across the river but can only get a fleeting view of it through the trees covering the far cliff side. What you can see is awfully nice too.

About half way back to the trailhead I saw a couple of raptors circling overhead. It took me a minute to realize that they were a pair of Golden Eagles. They’re bigger than Bald Eagles.

The rocks are fascinating. The park has dozens of rock wall climbing routes.

And here are a couple of folks trying out one of them.

It took me almost three hours to complete the 3.6 mile loop with a total elevation gain of 908 feet. A lot of that time was spent just stopping to enjoy the views. There are other trails in the park that I would have loved to had time to check out.

I even got to see a couple of lizards. We don’t get them much in the Idaho Panhandle.

I made one last short walk to an overlook on the east side of the canyon to get another perspective.

I enjoyed hiking in Smith Rock State Park. The State of Oregon does a nice job of maintaining this beautiful site. I don’t know if I’ll ever make it out this way again but if I do I’d gladly hike this route again.

Smith Rock State Park turned out to be the highlight of my three day Oregon Road trip and the only adventure along the way worthy of it’s own post. You can check out the rest of the trip here.

Indian Cliffs Trail, Heyburn State Park

I drove out to Heyburn State Park on the south end of Lake Coeur d’Alene to take a short hike on the Indian Cliffs Trail and to check out Idaho’s oldest state park.

Heyburn State Park was established in 1908 and is the oldest state park in the Pacific Northwest. The park is located between Plummer and St. Maries Idaho about an hour south of the City of Coeur d’Alene. The St. Joe River empties in to the lake within the park.

The trailhead for the Indian Cliffs hike was about two miles in to the park from the visitor center on State Road 5. Just after you cross the Trail of the Coeur d’Alene’s after Plummer Creek there is a parking area. At the first junction take a left for an easier limb and better views.

After the junction, the trail climbs at a moderate grade through a forest that slowly becomes more open above and parallel to Plummer Creek.

After three quarters of a mile the trail passes through an area that was impacted by a wild fire thirty years ago. The fire left many surviving ponderosa pines and the state worked to restore the original open floor habitat after that. It reminded me of long leaf pine/wire grass habitat in Florida.

After climbing about five hundred feet, we were treated to views of the lakes and wetlands below. That’s the mouth of Plummer Creek where it enters the lake.

Across the canyon we had a view of the railroad that still services the lumber mill in St. Maries. We got to see the weekly or so train that still runs on this line. This is the same line that I hiked on beyond St. Maries that is now abandoned.

As we got towards the top of the ridge the views got better. You can see the channel of the St. Joe River in the middle of the lake. Over a hundred years ago the Post Falls Dam raised the level of the lake flooding the lowlands on the south end of the lake. The river banks being somewhat higher still bracket the old river channel creating a “river in a lake”.

It was a overcast and for this time of year, a very humid day. It was the first time I sweated in seventy degree weather in many years. It did end up raining a little which is god send for the guys and gals that work so hard to keep wild fires contained. This tree looked like it had experienced more than one serious weather event in its time.

Further along the ridge there were rock outcroppings. For about a mile the views across the lake were unimpeded.

Indian Cliffs are not a straight drop off but there are boulder fields at the base covered in moss. A rolling stone gathers no moss.

After descending down the slope we were treated to a couple of surprises. Those of you that follow this blog know I love Western Red Cedars and this little grove was a gem.

A little further we came across one of the largest White Pines I.ve seen. Western White Pine were decimated many decades ago by an invasive disease and almost became extinct in there native range. Luckily some trees were resistant and the U.S. Forest Service has been working on using the genetics from these trees to breed a new generation of White Pines. This one obviously predated the blister rust.

After completing the just over three mile loop with a five hundred foot elevation gain we checked out the day use area for the park. The Trail of the Coeur d’Alene’s passes through it and in the distance you can see the bridge for the trail over the lake.

If not here’s a better view. The bike ride from Plummer to here is about seven miles and all down hill. The lake looked a littler rough today due to passing thunder storms. Glad I didn’t choose to kayak.

Heyburn State Park is awesome. The easy hike we took was extremely scenic. A thirteen mile drive to the town of St. Maries and another ten miles or so up the St. Joe was a nice extension. On the way back I highly recommend the Gateway Café in Plummer for a late lunch. Totally five stars all the way.