Hikes – Page 5 – The Great Outdoors in Free State America

Mt Spokane State Park, Quartz Mountain Lookout and the Vista House.

Yesterday, I visited Mt. Spokane State Park for the first time in over a decade. This state park located about an hour from my house and forty-five minutes from downtown Spokane has three peaks over five thousand feet the tallest of which is Mt. Spokane, the the highest point in the county at 5883 feet above sea level.

I started my hike at the Selkirk Lodge and headed away from Mt. Spokane towards Quartz Mountain, the third highest summit in the park. As I left the trailhead, there were nice views of Mt. Spokane behind me complete with communication towers and snow fields.

The trail was for the most part a service road to the fire look out with several parallel Nordic ski trails for those looking for more solitude. The climate up here is close to a temperate rain forest.

Being spring, there are plenty of wild flowers to appreciate along the way.

Near the summit you will pass by evidence that miners searched the mountain for gold. Gold is often found with quartz and there is a lot of quartz near the top. I don’t think they ever found gold through. I saw a couple of shafts and tunnels on a side trail.

At the top there is an old fire look out tower that is now rented by the state park for campers. The stairs were gated and locked. The view was a little disappointing as the trees east, north and west of the top were just tall enough to block it. It would have been nice to be able to climb the ten feet or so to the balcony.

The view towards the south however were very nice towards Newman and Hauser Lakes. The prominence in the center of the horizon is Mica Peak Idaho, AKA Signal Point close to where I hiked yesterday at Cable Creek.

The quartz boulders made for a pretty foreground with the Spokane Valley far in the distance.

A better view of Newman Lake with Mica Peak Washington in the background. Spokane County has large conservation holdings both on the north end of Newman Lake and on Mica Peak.

The trip was only about four and a half miles with maybe five hundred feet of elevation gain. Not quite enough to justify the hour long drive.

So I decided to walk to the top of Mount Spokane itself. The first mile or so was on a very nice single track through some old growth forest.

Parts were steep and the trail took me out to the main park road at a campground which was closed for the season. I continued up the main park road.

So a wise guy asked me why I would walk up the mountain when they have a perfectly good motor road to the top and ski lifts as well. Well it is spring time in the Inland Northwest so ski season is over and the road is still closed to vehicles, so that was my only option. It was kind of nice to focus on the views and not worry about driving a vehicle.

Turned out parts of the road were still covered in snow above 5500 feet. Above the tree line the views kept getting better and better.

Not enough snow to cover the ski runs though. Mount Spokane is a winter sports destination with Nordic skiing, downhill skiing and snowshoe trails. The season ended a couple of months ago. Summer season begins an a couple of weeks when they open the road.

Areas where the snow has melted revealed a rocky alpine landscape with stunted trees.

The views from the summit are impressive. That’s Spirit Lake below, a place I enjoy kayaking with the snow capped Montana Cabinet Mountains on the horizon.

In this view you can see a sliver Upper Twin Lake and Mount Rathdrum where I hiked a week ago. I ended up walking about twelve miles with something close to a two thousand foot elevation gain. Tomorrow, I think I might give my legs a break and break out the kayak instead.

At the very top of the mountain you will find the Vista House. This is a nice place to linger and enjoy the views.

When the snow finally melts this will be a much more crowded place.

You get to enjoy the same views on the way down as you did going up. Once again I used my Discover Pass which has now very much more than paid for it self. Between this hike and yesterdays at Cable Creek I ended up walking for over ten hours, half of that up hill. Definitely looking at kayaking the next couple of days.

Cable Creek Idaho

Todays hike was on a site owned and managed by the Idaho Department of Lands. IDL for short, manages thousands of acres of forest land primarily to make a profit and support public education in the state. Compatible outdoor recreation is allowed, but not the focus of this agency. Never the less, they provide public ownership of some very nice parcels of forest land which I use to my advantage.

This 640 acre parcel is located on the Washington State Line a few miles south of Interstate 90 and within fifteen minutes of my house. It has been one of my go to spots for hiking for many years. I call it Cable Creek because that is the name of the perennial stream that flows through it.

After crossing the name sake creek on what can only be described as a logging road, the trail continues up hill through a series of switch backs with views of Shasta Butte, AKA Big Rock. On todays visit I discovered a couple of new logging roads that added nothing to the experience.

Because this is a “working” forest, parts of the property have been clear cut with the pluses and minuses that come with that. Obviously the minus is no trees or shade in places. The pluses are that you do get open views across the valley. That is Rathdrum Mountain ten or so miles away. I hiked there last week.

Also full sunlight is beneficial for wild flowers including lupines.

And these guys.

Some folks hate walking on logging roads. I don’t mind them. The grade is more consistent and they’re wide enough so you can walk side by side if you have company. Obviously this is an older photo from last winter. The relatively low elevation makes for a longer hiking season.

Near the top of the property, there are nice views of nearby Liberty Lake and the Spokane Valley beyond. On a clear day you can see downtown Spokane about twenty miles away.

The ridge top trail is a single track near the high point of the property. IDL constantly battles with ATV’ers trying to close unofficial trails some of which are well sited and built. The Liberty Lake ORV Park is just across the invisible line between the properties and therefore a lot of dirt bikes find their way on to the Idaho side. I really don’t mind them. They’re always polite when they go by and I don’t mind sharing.

The high point of the hill is literally twenty feet past the property line and is well posted. I don’t generally condone trespassing, but give me a break. The view from here is amazing and you would have plenty of time to skedaddle if you hear ATV’s coming.

the high point is beautiful with views of Mica Peak Washington, Signal Point Idaho and Shasta Butte.

On the way down you are treated to more views of Liberty Lake. Spokane County has an amazing park on the south end of the lake with trails to waterfalls and Mica Peak Washington. Unfortunately they closed the park this summer for a complete overhaul. As soon as they are done, I will be returning to it.

Here is an interesting tree off of the trail. Looks like a two for one.

Due to logging operations the views are more extensive than you would expect. That is Newman Lake in the distance. Spokane County has another conservation area on the north side of the lake that I will probably post about before the summer is over.

Finally here is a photo I took last winter while hiking here. Again that is Shasta Butte, AKA Big Rock. I used to hike to the top of that prominence, but in recent years the new owners have decided to confront visitors. You would think they would be okay with sharing the views but whatever. Thankfully there’s still a lot of public property to explore.

My oldest daughter discovered this hidden gem over a decade ago and then dragged me out there for a hike. Since then I probably walked this site five or six times a year. It’s close by and the views are awesome. IDL has several other sites in the area some of which are well worth exploring as well.

Rathdrum Mountain

I hiked on Rathdrum Mountain last weekend. This local favorite is twenty minutes from my house and is one of the trifecta of awesome natural areas owed and managed by local cities in Kootenai County along with Coeur d’Alene’s Tubbs Hill and Post Fall’s Qemilin Park. Rathdrum Mountain Park is owned and maintained by the City of Rathdrum, Kootenai County’s fourth largest city.

The trailhead is surrounded by a lush cedar forest with some very large trees. A perennial creek flows through this forest.

There are several small creeks along the hike and in the spring time parts of the trail can be muddy.

The main trail is named Storm King Parkway. It is an old service road that winds through an impressive forest with many extremely large trees. This cedar is the largest I have found and it’s difficult to appreciate the size of it by taking a picture.

Further up the trail, more open ponderosa pine forest provide a drier contrast to the damp cedar woods usually found along the streams.

The more open forest has an abundance of wild flowers at different times of the year.

Most of the first three miles of the hike are heavily wooded, but occasionally openings in the canopy provide glimpses of the open slopes higher on the mountain.

On the way up there are a couple of views out over the town of Rathdrum and of the prairie beyond it.

After about an hour and a half, I made it to the open slopes on the east side of the mountain. This is where the views really open up.

In the far background, you can see part of Lake Coeur d’Alene. The tiny bump right in front of the lake is Tubbs Hill.

Across the valley is Mica Peak, a prominent mountain just past Post Falls. Qemilin Park is near the base of those distant mountains.

The rocky slopes are beyond the city owned property. Most of the land up here is owned either by the Idaho Department of Lands or timber companies like Inland Empire Paper. You can buy day use and seasonal passes to hike Inland Empire Paper lands from various vendors in the area or on line here.

This was my turnaround point after two and a half hours of hiking and pausing to admire the views and gaining about 1500 feet of elevation. You are still miles and a thousand feet short of the summit and through previous experience, I found there is no practical way to get to the top from this direction.

After five hours of walking it was good to be back down among the giant cedars near the trailhead.

No hike to the Rathdrum Mountain Park would be complete without saying goodbye to fellow that runs the place.

I love this hike. It’s long enough to really stretch your legs on and very easy to get to. On the way back, check out Westwood Brewing Company in the town of Rathdrum if you have a chance.

Qemilin Park and the Post Falls Community Forest

The Post Falls Community Forest is according to the city’s website, a 500 acre natural area with miles of hiking trails. This gem of a hike is just across the river from my house and the two trailheads are less than ten minutes away by car. Today I took a three hour walk to many of my favorite places in this amazing place.

Currently the forest is accessed either through Qemilin Park, a popular recreation site just across the river from downtown Post Falls or the upper trailhead located a short drive up the hill on West Riverview Drive. Long term plans call for a connection via a pedestrian suspension bridge from Corbin Park which is within walking distance. It would be great to see this happen in my lifetime.

The main trail from both trailheads starts with a steep descent. I call the entrance to the forest from Qemilin Park the Stairway to Heaven because that’s how I felt about it the first time I found it in February of 2006.

The main trail passes by the base of several shear cliffs that make up one of the most popular rock climbing places in North Idaho. Sometimes I stop to watch those daredevils’. Some of the walls are over one hundred feet high.

Several trails connect to the river by climbing over large granite rock out croppings.

It’s a long way down to the river and in the spring time when the flood gates are open, the flow is impressive.

One of the great things about Qemilin Park is that even after years of exploring it occasionally I find a new hidden place for the first time.

An island in the river is the site of one of the oldest hydro electric plants in the west. It was originally built to provide power to the mine shafts in the Silver Valley and is still in use today.

Fifth Canyon is one of my favorite places to explore. These are some of the largest walls in the park.

The view from the bottom of Lower Fifth Canyon.

In August 2023, a wild fire burned about 80 acres of the forest. The section of the loop trail through the burned area is still closed. Hopefully it will reopen by the end of summer. This is about as close as you can get to the burned area before the signs tell you to turn around.

Near the west end of the property I stop at one of my favorite views. The top photo was from today and the bottom from a couple of months ago. It is a nice place to appreciate the change of season.

Spring is the best time of year to appreciate wild flowers.

Near the top of the trail on the way to the upper trailhead on Riverview Drive there is an open view across the valley to Rathdrum Mountain, a place I will post about soon.

Overall the variety of landscapes and all the hidden places begging to be explores makes this one of my favorite places to enjoy nature. It also helps that it’s so close to home.

The St. Maries River Railroad

Today I hiked a section of a abandoned spur of the St. Maries River Railroad south of Santa to the old tunnel about halfway back to the town of St. Maries Idaho, about an hour south of Coeur d’Alene.

I started my hike at a pullout just south of the State Road 3 bridge over the old line about 30 minutes south of St. Maries Idaho.

If you go south under the bridge, the rail line parallels the river into Santa about three miles away. The old line at one time continued all the way to Boville east of Moscow Idaho. I headed north in to the wilderness.

I immediately crossed a small creek on this bridge. The bluffs in the background looked worth exploring.

Within half a mile, it became evident that no trains had passed this way in a long time. My understanding is that the line was last used about a decade ago.

Large basalt bluffs border much of the route on the inland side of the old rail bed. The St. Maries River is usually right next to it as well.

Old railroad lines can be a little creepy. It is always a good idea to turn around occasionally to make sure nothing is following you. It is North Idah0 after all.

Looking up is advisable too. You never know what’s watching you from above. Also, I’d hate to get hit by a falling rock.

About an hour and a half in, I came across this small bridge over Flat Creek right where it empties into the river.

It was higher than it looked at first.

Walking on an abandoned, but still intact railroad is a little more difficult than it sounds. In some stretches the lack of ballast forces you to walk on the ties and they’re never spaced for a normal stride. The round trip ended up being just over twelve miles, about as long as I want to go in one day.

The old pieces of railroad history scattered along the line and the extreme isolation of this section created a kind of haunted atmosphere. The old telegraph post looked almost like the entrance to a graveyard.

Here it appeared the railroad used old rail cars filled with boulders to create a barrier to protect the line from the river at this outside bend.

Finally I arrived at the first bridge over the St. Maries River. I originally planned to hike to this bridge, the tunnel just after it and then the second bridge but it took longer to get here than I expected so I cancelled the half mile or so each way to the second bridge.

The bridge was an impressive structure with nice views of the river both upstream and downstream.

Immediately after the bridge was the entrance to the tunnel. You could see daylight through it and I would guess it to be less than four hundred feet long. No problem, right?

Actually it was creepy as hell inside. You could see that large chunks of rocks had been falling off the ceiling.

And I thought the north end was creepy. I almost didn’t want to go back through it but my hike out was at an end and it was time to turn around and head back.

The railroad bed on the south side of the tunnel seemed completely different, like it had been abandoned for much longer. The vegetation was much thicker, even on the old rail bed and it was much wetter. The ties had algae on them making walking a little more treacherous. Because the tunnel cut off a long bend of the river, the railroad on the south side was much higher above it than at the other side of the tunnel only a few hundred feet away.

On the return hike a cold drizzle made me curse my luck. Five minutes after I got in my car, a downpour of rain and small hail made me reassess my luck. I guess it was good after all. Six hours from when I started I made it back to my rig and then drove another hour and a half back home. I plan to explore more of the Pacific Northwest’ old rail lines in the future either by foot or bike.

Tubbs Hill, Coeur d’Alene’s jewel on the lake.

On a cool and cloudy late April day, I took a walk on Tubbs Hill for at least the hundredth time since my first visit in September 2001. Probably more like three hundred times. This well known and visited local treasure is located right next to downtown.

From an open ridge just below the summit, there are nice views of the city. This is looking northwest along the Spokane River, the outlet to Lake Coeur d’Alene. As you see, the hill is only three blocks from Sherman Avenue, the heart of downtown. Through the overcast sky you can see Rathdrum Mountain in the far background. It will be the subject of another post in the near future.

Tubbs Hill is a 160 acre nature preserve owned and maintained by the City of Coeur d’Alene’s Parks and Recreation Department. The hill forms a peninsula in to the lake and the summit is about 400 feet above the water. Although Tubbs Hill is about a quarter of a square mile, because of the rugged terrain it is possible to spend half a day exploring all of the trails.

I started todays walk in McEuen Park, an extremely nice public space at the base of the hill with all the amenities one could ask for including parking, clean restrooms, picnic areas, playgrounds and a concession building.

Starting at the trailhead by the mooring docks and concession building one walks counter clockwise along the lake. Below you is the breakwater that protects the Coeur d’Alene Resort marina and what I call First Beach.

Further down the trail you pass above Second Beach, my favorite place to hang out with the kids when they were little.

The third beach is the largest and most popular at Corbin Point. This is also a favorite place for boaters to anchor off shore and enjoy the day.

Additional trails connect with the so called Fire Road higher on the slopes offering commanding views of the lake to the south. Up here the crowds thin and sometimes one can find solitude.

Across the lake is Kidd Island and Kidd Island Bay. I’ve seen it spelled with both one and two D’s.

Interesting rock formations and beautiful open woodlands beg to be explored. Those looking for more exercise can traverse the summit trail.

This is graffiti not ancient art, but sometimes someone’s creative expression is so good that it becomes part of the attraction. This has been here for over a decade and the good folks that remove obnoxious defacements like it so much it has been allowed to stay.

Completing the lakeshore loop you will see a couple of small beaches through the mist on the east side of the hill before you reach the East Tubbs Hill Trailhead.

East Tubbs Park or the East Tubbs Hill Trailhead has additional parking and a port-a-potty on the east side of the hill in the Sanders Beach neighborhood.

In addition to originally being the site of the pumphouse that provided the city with it’s water supply before they switched to deep wells, East Tubbs Hill Park was at one time the location of a fish hatchery.

The return to McEuen Park features a crossing over a sketchy looking suspension bridge and a walk up some elaborate steps before crossing an open meadow. A non-profit organization, The Friends of Tubbs Hill works with the city on projects to improve trails and natural resource management.

Finally here’s a picture from a bright sunny day for contrast.

The first time I walked this hill, I was instantly in love with it. Although it is a very easy hike and easily accessible the views and variety are incredible. It can be crowded in the summer especially close to the shoreline but the off season is heaven and the relatively low elevation makes hiking the hill practical year round. Tubbs Hill may be a North Idaho gem but it isn’t hidden or secret.

Riverside State Park, part 2 Deep Creek Canyon and Pine Bluff.

Today I made a return visit to Riverside State Park just west of Spokane to check out a couple of hikes for the first time. The trailheads for both hikes are located off of Seven Mile Road and are only a couple of miles apart. As always I used my Discovery Pass to cover the entrance fee. It has more than paid for itself and it’s only April.

I started at the upper trailhead for Deep Creek Canyon and at the parking area their is a nice view of Pine Bluff. The hike started on what used to be a gravel park motor road, but is now closed to vehicles.

There are trails that connect Deep Creek Canyon to the Pine Bluff trail system for those who desire more of a challenge. Both hikes by themselves are easy each being only two or three miles and with moderate elevation gains. I highly recommend hiking boots. The basalt rocks are sharp and athletic shoes just don’t cut it.

A few hundred feet down the gravel road I turned left on trail #25 and descended to the bottom of the canyon and immediately climbed back up on the opposite side. The canyon was completely dry.

At the rim you have a choice between staying on trail #25 to the left or turning right on trail #411 also called the Interpretive Loop Trail. I opted for the latter and was soon greeted by stark basalt rock formations.

In the distance you can see where the canyon ends on shore of Nine Mile Reservoir the body of water created by the dam of that name on the Spokane River.

These monoliths were home to hundreds of sparrows.

The trail slowly descends through a basalt wasteland. Parts of it reminded me of Craters of the Moon in southern Idaho.

At the bottom of the canyon near its termination on the shore of the lake the habitat changes significantly with cottonwoods and birch trees becoming more common. There is an old rest stop here that apparently was used by tourist back when the shoreline road hosted vehicular traffic.

This bridge is now used only for non-motorized travel and is part of the Centennial Trail. The water beneath it is backwater from the lake, Deep Creek was completely dry. Here I hiked a few hundred feet east on the road and then turned right on the old park road to the Deep Creek Canyon Overlook.

This used to be pull out for cars before the road became a non-motorized trail. Three quarters of a mile and I was back at the trailhead.

My next stop was the second of two trailheads for Pine Bluff. The parking areas was only big enough for three cars. An easy hike on a confusing and poorly marked trail system soon brought me to outstanding views of the lake.

Across the valley you can see Knothead Mountain where I hiked a few weeks ago and in the far distance Mount Spokane, the tallest peak in Spokane County at 5883 feet above sea level.

The updrafts created by the cliffs are used by all kinds of birds including Ravens, Ospreys, Eagles and Vultures.

The trail skirts some shear cliffs with outstanding views.

The open flower covered meadows were visually appealing and the flat trail very easy to negotiate.

Same area, but a different view.

They even have some nice benches up there from which to enjoy the views to the east.

The return to the trailhead was short and easy. These hiking options are suitable for a wide range of abilities and the location just outside of Spokane makes for an easy day, or half day trip.

Riverside State Park, part 1 the Knothead Loop Trail.

Today I hiked the Knothead Loop trail for the fourth time. This little treasure is just a few miles north of Spokane Washington in one of the units of Riverside State Park. My starting point was at the aptly named Painted Rocks Trailhead off of Indian Trail Road just north of the Little Spokane River. There is a $10 fee to park at the trailhead. I highly recommend purchasing a Discover Pass from the State of Washington. If you like to explore, it will pay for itself very quickly.

This is allegedly a Native American pictograph. It is protected by an elaborate cage which I stuck my hands through so I could get a photo without bars. It is located right at the trailhead, hence the name.

This is a six mile loop trail with an additional 1.5 mile spur to three amazing overlooks. I always have hiked this loop counter clockwise. Immediately you’re greeted with stark granite cliffs in an area that experienced a catastrophic wildfire less than a decade ago.

After hiking up a gradual incline through the Knothead Valley, the trail gains elevation though a series of switchbacks with view back to the southeast. That’s Mica Peak Washington in the distance. The elevation gain is about one thousand feet.

After cresting the ridge, the hiker is rewarded with amazing views of Long Lake, which is the lake created by the Long Lake Dam on the Spokane River just before it empties into Lake Roosevelt.

This is a great place to linger and enjoy the views as well as recover from the moderately steep climb from the valley.

In the distance you can see the Okanagan Highlands. In the foreground some of the rock formations are very photogenic. This is the high point of the loop.

The great bend of Long Lake and the view out to the West Plains are very beautiful.

Going down from the high Point, you’ll encounter a trail junction before the steep descent to the Little Spokane River. Take the Knothead Overlook Trail to the left and you will be rewarded with some amazing views.

This spur trail accesses three overlooks, each substantially higher that the last. At all of them you can enjoy views of the serpentine Little Spokane River.

The drop offs can be intimidating or exhilarating, depending on your fear of heights. Either way the views keep coming.

The hike to the third and highest overlook goes through an area that experienced a stand replacement wildfire. These are part of the natural cycle in the inland northwest. That ponderosa trunk is kind of scary to walk under. If it fell, it would squish you like a grape.

At the top of the Overlook Trail, you can explore off trail and see interesting rock formations.

After exploring the Overlook Trail, you will return to the main loop trail and begin your descent to the river valley. The trail is well built and maintained.

Many interesting rock outcroppings are found along the trail.

On the way down, the trail goes through some open ponderosa pine forest on benches (relatively flat areas) before it descends to the river.

An open ridge gives the hiker one last look of Long Lake.

The last mile or two of the hike closely parallels the Little Spokane River back to the trailhead. In a month or two, I hope to post a kayak trip on this waterway. It looks amazing.

The Little Spokane Rive or its associated wetland bracket the trail to the south or as like to hike counter clockwise, to the right.

Kayaking this is definitely on my bucket list. This is supposedly a one way trip, so I need a partner to drop off a vehicle at the downstream end.

Just before the trailhead, you reenter the burned area. On one side of the trail is the Little Spokane and on the other a wilderness of granite cliffs. Makes for a stark contrast.

Overall I would rate this as one of the best hikes in the Spokane area. It’s easy to get to and the reward verses effort is very high. Check here for more information on Riverside State Park. I hope to post more hikes from the park in the near future.

Hiking in Grand Coulee, part 2 Northrup Canyon.

Northrup Canyon is park of Steamboat Rock State park and the trailhead is located on the east (inland) side of State Road 155 about three miles north of the main park entrance. I made the visit on Sunday, March 17, 2024 after spending most of the day on top of Steamboat Rock. There is a fee to enter the park. I highly recommend purchasing an annual Discover Pass through the Washington State Parks Department.

Northrup Canyon is a classic basalt gorge, typical of the area.

At the trailhead, a second hiking option, The Old Wagon Road splits off to the right and climbs the south wall of the canyon. It looked well worth exploring but unfortunately I only had time to take the main trail to an abandoned farmstead before the sun when down.

The relatively level old farm road winds through the canyon with a mix of sage brush, open pine forests and wetlands between imposing basalt walls.

The views are stunning and the walking is easy to the old farm buildings.

Several out buildings in various stages of decay made for interesting photographic backgrounds.

The old farm house looked like it could be a very lonely and isolated place. Notice the large basalt arch on the canyon wall above and to the right of the building.

The view from the living room window. The trail continues another mile and a half further on a steeper single track to a small lake. I will have to explore this option at a later date.

Dramatic rock formations loom over much of the trail. Basalt is the most unfriendly rock.

The round trip to the farm and back is a little under four miles. Going all the way to the lake and back would be just over six miles. This trail is definitely on my list for a return visit.

Hiking in Grand Coulee, part 1 Steamboat Rock

I took a two and a half hour drive west to sample a couple of unique hikes in Steamboat Rock State Park. On the way made a quick stop to admire the mighty Grand Coulee Dam. First was the hike to the top of Steamboat Rock and later that day, I visited Northrup Canyon. There is a fee to enter the park. I highly recommend purchasing an annual Discover Pass through the Washington State Parks Department.

In terms of generating electricity, Grand Coulee is the leading producer in the United States. A short drive up the hill rewards the traveler with this view from the Crown Point Vista.